Robert Jasper

Always looking for new challenges, Robert Jasper (often with his wife Daniela Jasper), exceeds the current level of sport climbing in the Alpine terrain. On the north face of the Eiger, they achieved the first tenth degree route up one of the largest north walls with the first ascent of the Symphonie de Liberté (8a, 10- UIAA). It was only after several days on the wall, bivouacking in a hanging tent, and several falls of up to fifteen metres, that they managed to climb with all ropes free (Rotpunkt). So far, Robert Jasper has climbed the north face of the Eiger a total of sixteen times. Grande Jorasses: first free mixed ascent of ‘No Siesta’ M8, E5, 1000 metres. 

In 1991, Robert Jasper achieved the spectacular solo ascent of the three great north faces of the Alps: Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes-Jorasses. On the north face of the Eiger, he achieved the first solo ascent of the ‘Spit Verdonesque,’( which has eighth degree cliff climbing and a few technical passages up to A1) in a sensational 4 hours. Jasper positively raced up the ‘Leichentuch’ V, 80° on the north wall of the Grandes Jorasses in 2.2 hours to reach the summit. His solo ascent of the north wall of the Pillier d`Angle at up to 85° on a new route with a descent via the south wall and the first solo ascent of the Freney route ‘Abominette’ VI, 85° on Mt. Blanc in one day (13 hours) were voted among the best climbing performances in France.

When Robert Jasper is involved, you know it’s going to be ice climbing to the max. His ice and mixed climbing have set new standards worldwide by repeating the most difficult ice and mixed routes as well as his first ascents. This is why readers of the German magazine ‘Klettern’ voted him the best mixed climber in the world in 2003. In October 2005, Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz completed the first ascent of the north wall of the Cerro Murallon using the ‘Gone with the wind’ route with difficulty levels of up to 7c+, M5 and A2; a first ascent which was nominated for the Piolet d’Or (the mountaineering Oscar).